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Old 10th November 2011, 19:07   #1
SimonC
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Default Engine/car repair shop

Hi all.
The laser has been very busy this week! bricks and wood.
I started out thinking about the On30 equivalent of a wagon works (car repair shop to our US friends) handling 20' cars, and ended up growing it a little....well a lot! You know how it goes...if I add a extra 2 1/2 inch then I can handle 30' freight cars...another extra inch a climax/shay will easily fit....but where to put the C16...more inches!

So here's some work in progress shots with what may prove to be very verstile modular structure. The whole thing is held together with blue tac just now and these are first cuts.
The "front"


The other side: 15" long with doors at both ends will fit nearly anything if you laid track through it.


. shot from end (wall removed). Its wide enough for a climax. imagine the shot with lighting and a roof. (and floor, people, tools etc etc!!). Alternatively if the track is laid lengthways on the right, you can still easily get in a 20' car or a porter through the doors on the left.


enough height: 3 3/4" bay door clearance (3 1/2" with the track fitted). hmm look at that brickwork. the laser sure worked hard cutting that.


well got to go...some windows and doors to model in CAD now.
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Old 10th November 2011, 22:04   #2
RW James
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

I like it! Well done
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Old 11th November 2011, 08:43   #3
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

Well done Simon, as your finding out brick take forever to do. Like the modular idea that will make a easier to do kit.
rich
rslaserkits
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Old 11th November 2011, 11:02   #4
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

forever is about right! All the brickwork for this structure fits on one sheet. I press the "go" button then do something else for an hour but this involves little labour for me, just laser time, so I'm not that bothered when the other parts are pretty quick.
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Old 11th November 2011, 23:05   #5
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

Windows and doors done. The sliding doors could have been done with a strip over the top of the doors which are glued in place - but that would look less industrial so I opted for cutting dual rollers for the sliding doors so the guts are on show. Effectively simple....and they really slide


close up of the rollers
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Old 26th November 2011, 11:30   #6
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

After a quick change of design of the end walls this can kit now be built up as a 2 road engine shed handling 15" lokkies.
Doing the instructions now...step by step with photos. Not a short task.

The structure has enough hieght under the roof to convert to a short 2 road standard guage O scale shed - just need bigger doors
A version for my 7mm friends here in the UK methinks. 15" is useful for those tank engines.
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Old 27th November 2011, 11:23   #7
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Very nice indeed. I like the convertability of the design, .....
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Old 29th November 2011, 14:29   #8
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

An excellent looking building. The modularity should make it doubly appealing.
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Old 1st December 2011, 04:34   #9
spyder62
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

Coming along nicely Simon. I really like how you did the door slides they look great.
rich
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Old 13th December 2011, 01:30   #10
SimonC
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Default Re: Engine/car repair shop

Hi all. It’s done
The kit can be built up in quite a few ways as you can see in the pics. The roof lights have windows in the pics below, but I worked out a neat way of fitting louvres so they are included as an alternative.
I'm happy the way the shingles turned out. They are derived from pics of real shingles and represent 24” weathered shingles. High quality printed from a local printers then run through the laser to cut individual shingles in strips. Colour and tone is always a personal taste – the pics below show the roof after it has a single light wash of ink/alcohol. The roof is removable.(I’ll post some pics of the interior tomorrow).
I think maybe an industrial grade corrugated iron option for the roof (scale 6” rib) might also look good instead of shingles. Although I roll my own from ally sheet, that would have to be an extra price option as the roof area is so large.
Boards and battens are individually applied to the frames with peel and stick – the P&S on the internal frames so it can’t be seen. I’ve tried to make the inside as good as the outside.
I’m considering a floor option – if I can work out a simple way to handle 0n3/On30 guage difference. Having 2 possible track arrangements makes for some fun too
Anyhow - will be available when website comes on line in the new year.
Simon





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