Sweethome Chicago modules underway

[Jon Grant]

Who makes those alignment dowels and also the leveling feet?

philip

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Thanks Philip. I got the dowels and feet in the UK. Unfortunately neither seller is on the net. I can get you addresses if you want them. The dowels were from 'Modelex' and the feet from 'Rural Railways'.

Jon

[Philip]

Jon,
Sure thing. How about that address for the alignment dowels.
Sorry for the slow response. :blink:

thanks.

philip

[shortliner]

Looks great Jon! Who makes those alignment dowels and also the leveling feet?

philip

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One supplier is Red Dog, 9 Harcourt, Bradwell, Milton Keynes, MK13 9EN - free catalogue on request
Don't have a phone number or email to hand - Sorry!
Shortliner(Jack) away up here in the Highlands :unsure:

[Lighthorseman]

Fantastic looking trackwork, Jon! I find your idea of running the track right to the end of the module a very interesting idea. Conventional "wisdom" over here says that one must end the tracks 4 or so inches before the module end, and fill the gaps with short sections of track. This, of course, leaves an unseemly section at the end of each module. As I'm building a modular layout too, and since it's just my layout, and I needn't worry about hooking up to other modules, I'm seriously looking at the same (or very similar) system that you're using. I was wondering if you could answer a few questions for me.

--> Have you tried (or seen used) this method before?

--> Do the rail ends need to be specially guarded against being damaged or yanked out of gauge because they're right at the end of the module? Will the screws hold the track securely enough?

--> Since they're already being soldered, could one solder a power lead there as well? If so, I could have power connections at each end of each module...overkill?

--> Any other ideas or ruminations on this method?


I think this is how I'm going to have my track set up, and thank you for the excellent pictures. B)

[Jon Grant]

--> Have you tried (or seen used) this method before?

Yes Steve, this is the 6th modular layout I have been involved with, three of them being my own. All of them have used this method of securing the rails at the baseboard joints, although my first attempt used PCB sleepers (copperclad strips) pinned down and the rails soldered on. This was somewhat fragile and prone to moving or breaking. the beauty of using brass screws is that you can adjust the height to just below the rail, prior to soldering.

Do the rail ends need to be specially guarded against being damaged or yanked out of gauge because they're right at the end of the module?

I protect the ends with a bolt-on wooden frame for carriage. the inside of the wood, next to the track ends is covered with a cork floor tile. the frame just has to be large enough to cover the ends of the trackwork.

Will the screws hold the track securely enough?

Definately, I have only seen the rail come away from the screw on one occasion, when we dropped the club layout on it's end. Only one rail out of 8 came away. the track was 'buckled to buggery'

Since they're already being soldered, could one solder a power lead there as well? If so, I could have power connections at each end of each module...overkill?

Yes to both, but if you ever want to remove/move the rail feed, don't unsolder it, just cut the end off, otherwise you will unsolder the rail too.

Any other ideas or ruminations on this method?

For my layouts I use a cork subroadbed glued onto a plywood top. The screws 'bite' well into this.

Make sure you have a way of aligning the baseboards/modules together, so that they join up exactly the same way each time. I used patternmakers dowels. you can also use wooden or brass dowels, hinges with the hinge pin removed and some rod used in its place or bolts.

When you can align the modules, lay some flexi-track over the joints and remove some of the sleepers/ties from the area where the screws will go.

Mark in pencil either side of the rails to be joined and remove the flexitrack.

Drill a small hole through the cork and into the wood, between the pencil marks - you should have 4 pencil marks for each length of track. Drill the hole about 5mm from the edge of the baseboard, or as near to the edge of the board as possible.

Screw in the 2 brass screws to approximately the right depth and re-lay the track. The screws should be underneath each rail, if you got it right. Now slide the track gently but firmly across the screws. this will show you if either screw is too high, as the rail will catch on the screw.

BTW, I use brass screws instead of steel, as the brass transmits heat better - less likely to melt the plastic ties.

Now pin and/or glue the track into its final position on the board. Do not cut it yet.

Repeat process for each track crossing the board joint

When all your tracks are in place and all the brass screws are in correctly, you can solder the rails to the screw. with practics you will get the solder to flow under the rail, leaving the rail top clear of mess.

When you are satisfied with the running properties and track alignment - be careful you dont solder the track out of gauge, either narrow or wide - you can now cut the rails.

Test your handiwork by unfixing the modules and then fitting them back together. The tracks should marry up perfectly each time.

Hope this doesn't put you off. It really isn't as complicated as it sounds.

Jon

[Lighthorseman]

Thanks for the how-to, Jon! I'll definitely be doing my trackwork this way, and will post a few pictures when I get to that point.

[paratom]

Would like to invite Sweethome Chicago to the Cardiff MRS please get in touch at animotion2@hotmail.com

[paratom]

This is a test.